When John Kimerlis arrived in Mildura, locals were accustomed to just one type of coffee: Instant. The cafe proprietor tells LAURA TURNER about his long journey from an opening-night disaster in the 1980s, to his family's new drive-through business, which serves up gourmet coffee for our discerning palates.

IN the crisp morning air that wraps itself around Mildura long before the sun does, two li...