THE golden hues of autumn sun on fading vine leaves greeted Gavin Hogg as he returned to Yelta, and he seemed to almost glow himself at the sight.

The veteran winemaker has been living in South Australia for four decades but, if home is where the heart is, one could say he never left the blocks west of Merbein, the town he has held close to that heart his whole eventful life.

It's history now th...